Cecile Paul

Struck with Style: Lightning Rod Fashion of the 18th Century

An AI-generated satire of lightening rod fashion Unfathomably whacky fashions have seen the light over the ages. Take the perilous hobble skirt of the early 1910s that deliberately impeded its wearer’s ability to walk, or the gentleman’s codpiece that drew eyes to his genital area for most of 16th century Europe. We’ve dug up yet […]

The Fashion Anatomy of Spandau Ballet 

Spandau Ballet © Corbis The swashbuckling frilly shirts, waist-cinching belts, man brooches, contouring make-up, jodhpurs and jack boots – was Spandau Ballet the most underrated fashion statement of the 80s? Outside of Britain (and the 1980s) the obscurely-named band might stand in the shadows of their rivals Duran Duran, but here’s why Spandau Ballet deserves a far

The Unsung Queen of Folk, Not Just Bob Dylan’s Girlfriend

Joan Baez with Bob Dylan The perfectly angelic voice of Joan Baez weaves through our guard to remind us of what has been lost or perhaps what should have been found. Laments for worlds lost or yet to come, Joan will forever remind us of our common humanity. Perhaps most poignant, her haunting rendition of

An Off-the-Curriculum Introduction to BDSM & Fetish Art History

A little slap and tickle – kinky or otherwise – has been good medicine for us down the ages. Public consumption of the practice of BDSM (Bondage and Discipline, Dominance and Submission, Sadochism and Masochism) really came into its own during a ‘golden age’ of fetish art in the mid 20th century. Fetish art has

Virtually Unknown in the West, But She’s an Icon of the Arab World 

Uum Kulthum (centre) The best way to make fast friends with a taxi driver in the Middle East? Ask them a simple question: “Fairuz or Umm Kulthum?” Sensational diva, singer, songwriter and actress, affectionately called ‘Egypt’s fourth pyramid’ and ‘mother of the Arabs’, Rolling Stones magazine ranked Umm Kulthum at number 61 of the 200

Once upon a time in Detroit’s ‘Little Paris of the Midwest’

A magnificent stone house once belonging to the American aviation pioneer Wilhelm Boeing in Detroit, Michigan, 1881. You shall go to the Ball! The Belle Époque was that party at the end of the 19th century when European influence, wealth, culture and glamour reigned supreme. All wanted to join the party, and Detroit, that French

Fashion’s Forgotten Bébé

Painter Christian Bérard and Renée, suit by Dior, Le Marais, Paris, August 1947by  Richard Avedon Fabulous, free and fashionable, France bloomed in the 1930s. The avant-garde arts flourished, Paris was at the centre of it all and her output was bountiful. The creative giants of the day, Picasso, Cocteau, Coco Chanel, May Ray, Beauvoir and

The Lost Art and Innovation of Milk Plastic

Galalith (“Milk Stone”) 1920s sample book, milk protein, formaldehyde, and pigments in Galalith (The Getty Research Institute) Got milk? Pour yourself a glass and gulp down some little-known history about the household staple. In the early decades of the 20th century, milk was commonly used to make many plastic ornaments, including jewellery, gemstones, buttons, decorative buckles, fountain

A Brief Compendium of Ruffs, History’s Most Inconvenient Fashion Fad

Portrait of Margarita Gonzaga, Duchess of Lorraine, Frans Pourbus the Younger, 1606 (and actress Julia Garner’s 17th century doppleganger) To us comfy dressers of today the idea of an itchy, restrictive gadget – fashionable or not – impeding our head movement isn’t the most appealing of accessories. But the ruff, a cumbersome featherlike collar worn around

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